Sailing SE Alaska

July 14, 2012   Kalinin Bay, thru Piehle Pass to Ford Arm

     We woke up early, 7:30. Dreams full of anxiety (almost driving off a collapsed bridge over a deep canyon).I think the anxiety is because I will be sailing out into the open ocean for the first time.
     In Kalinin Bay we had a quick breakfast and listened to the updated weather report on the VHF radio--ocean swell forecast still at 5 feet, so we were good to go. Started getting Privateer ready for the open ocean--everything below tucked in, fastened down all the port lights, brought Trinka (the rowboat) aboard and strapped her to the bow, fastened the crab pot to the lifelines, attached jack lines, raised the main and put in a single reef and stored the wood burning stove chimney below.
     Got underway by 11:00. Motored out of Kalinin Bay and once out into Salisbury Sound, we're finally able to raise the three sails (yankee, stays’l, main) and turn off the motor--Yeehaw! Today we had a NW wind that started at about 15 knots and eventually built to about 25.
     We cleared Salisbury Sound after a few tacks which brought us into the open ocean, the Gulf of Alaska. It’s important to stay way clear of Khaz Peninsula’s very rocky and shallow coastline. On our first starboard tack (west) we went out about five miles--ocean swells and waves combined were about 4-6 feet and Privateer clipped along at 6-8 knots (the notion that full keel is slower is clearly wrong) I was amazed that the only time we had to touch the tiller was when we tacked. Peter had the sails balanced so perfectly that Privateer stayed on a close haul all by herself. I was at the helm as we tacked and I was surprised at how hard I had to push to move the tiller.
      During that first starboard tack out into the ocean, when we were about 4 miles out, looking back toward land, we saw numerous humpback blow plumes rise and hover into the sky. We also could see the top of Mt. Fairweather, a 15,300 foot high mountain to the North.
     After about five hours and four tacks on the ocean, we cleared Khaz Peninsula and very carefully started motor sailing into and through Piehlie Passage, a rock strewn passage where some parts have a very narrow area that is safe to navigate (at one point we were in only 18 ft of water). Pete carefully followed a previous route he had made, recorded on his GPS, while I read out depth soundings and Kelsey stood on the bowsprit watching for rocks. Treacherous Piehle Passage had some of the most amazing rock formations I’ve seen yet in Alaska. (Piehle Pass is named after a rumrunner named Piehle who would escape into the pass as evening fell, to outrun the Feds)
     Once through the passage we shut off our engine. We could see the mouth of Slocum Arm on our starboard side (South) but we continued straight and sailed up Ford Arm. As we traveled up the 3 1/2 mile inlet, two eagles watched us from their perch in some tall trees and we saw a flock of Kittiwakes hanging out on a rock. Pete spotted a grizzly on a grassy flat (that man has amazing eyesight!). As we reached the head we went slightly North and anchored in small Elf cove.
     I didn’t enjoy going out into the ocean as much as I thought I would. It was discomforting to see the land get further away. Although Privateer sailed beautifully through the swells, the motion was unsettling (though I was relieved I had no sea sickness) After about an hour at sea, I started to feel very fatigued and wanted badly to get back closer to land, but when after about three hours Kelsey fed us salami,cheese and crackers,I started to feel less fatigued and seemed to be getting more accustomed to the motion of the sea.
     Now it is late, the wood stove is going and we are warm and cozy in the belly of Privateer. What a day!

Pete

Kelsey

Khaz Peninsula

Talia and Pete

Privateer Steering herself on a close-haul

She steers herself

My favorite picture.

On the ocean--yeehaw!

dangerous Piehlie Passage

Piehlie Passage

Pete at helm

heading up Ford Arm

Elf Cove in Ford Arm

July 15, 2012 Ford Arm to Falcon Arm

     We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. Pete grabbed his bear spray (one doesn’t go ashore without it) and a saw, loaded Trinka with 3 wood pallets and rowed ashore to finish cutting them up for the tiny wood stove. He had collected tossed oak pallets in Sitka. Kelsey and I stayed aboard and had a nice time chatting (I already adore both of them!)
     Once Pete was back, he showed Kelsey and I how to look up the tide charts on the GPS. After looking at the tides, (the flood was just starting), we decided to head back out Ford Arm and head South down Slocum Arm to the next inlet, Falcon Arm.
     Pete is going to have Kelsey and I take turns being navigator and helmsman and today Kelsey took the helm.
     As we pulled anchor, we decided to swing past an old abandoned cannery nearby (all we could see was some pilings) and then Pete spotted some grizzlies on a distant grassy flat--as we motored closer to get a better look, we could see it was a sow and two small cubs. We saw at least seven sea otters, floating on their backs.
      We motored back out Ford Arm with Kelsey at the helm, and me carefully watching the chart and watching the depth finder when needed.
     Once we left Ford Arm, we unfurled the yankee sail and turned off the engine and headed South, down Slocum Arm. The NW wind was mild (5-10 knots) and we varied between a beam and broad reach.
      Turned East into Falcon Arm and following the Coast Pilot instructions, stayed near the North shore until we had cleared an under water rock midway in the channel about a half a mile in. Once we were a little way into Falcon Arm the wind started shifting all over the place because of the high mountains and then died so we motored the rest of the way to the end of the three mile inlet. On our left was a deep scar down the mountain where a slide had cleared all the trees and to our right was a grassy flat where a grizzly watched us warily as he ate grass but bolted into the forest when our anchor clanged as it cleared the bowsprit. (this time of year the bears eat grass as they wait for the salmon to start their upriver runs)
    Now, once again, we are warm with wood heat and stomachs full with another of Kelsey’s awesome meals. Life is good!


sea otter

Taking pallets ashore to cut up for wood stove

All done.

Captain Kelsey


a sow and 2 cubs in Ford Arm


heading South down Slocum Arm

heading into Falcon Arm


Our anchorage, head of Falcon Arm

July 16, 2012 Falcon Arm to Klag Bay
     Dreams of bears last night chasing me through a grocery store--not surprising considering all the bears we’ve been seeing.
      From Falcon Arm our destination today was Klag Bay, where the mouth, The Gate, has to be transited during slack tide. We had planned for the high water slack, late morning but when we woke up at 8am, it was rainy and foggy so we decided to delay until the low water slack and went back to sleep (no arguments from me there!). Had a leisurely late morning and early afternoon and pulled up our anchor around 2:30. (wind from the NW).
     Today Kelsey was navigator and I took the helm. As we got under way, spotted a smaller (juvenile?) grizzly on the North bank as we motored out Falcon Arm. (We saw no sea otters in this inlet.) Cleared the arm and turned North out of Slocum Arm. The cloud cover over the surrounding mountain peaks was low and turned into a thin fog as we continued to motor North. Although we had uncovered the main, we later decided not to sail today so that Kelsey and I could focus on navigating. Peter has us watching our charts and he keeps an eye on his GPS (both can be unreliable however as these remote areas are not fully charted--so care is needed)
     As we cleared the small islands on our port side North of Khaz Head and crossed Khaz Bay, we were open to the ocean and the small swells hit us abeam and set Privateer rocking from side to side.
     Even though Kelsey watched our chart carefully (while I was at the helm), the light fog and the numerous small islands was very confusing and we had to idle for awhile as Kelsey and I tried to figure which gap was The Gate--the light fog obscured the green day marker that marks the entrance. Peter knew the right way but wanted us to problem solve and figure it out--which we were able to do. (The Gate is the entrance to Klag Bay)
      Finally we were able to see the green day marker on the North shore but the range markers on the chart to help guide through The Gate, in actuality were in disrepair and useless. (The Gate is very narrow, shallow and can only be transited during slack tide). Kelp on either side warned us of the shallows. We timed it perfectly and the currents were no problem though I did feel a difference and had to keep a firm hand on the tiller. As we passed through the gate, a bald eagle flew low right over over us though I only had time for a quick glance.
     Once past the gate, a bend to the right and we were past the hardest part, though we still had to keep a vigilant eye out. At one point a mama sea otter and her baby rested in the water off our port bow and didn’t dive under until we were within about ten feet of them. Unfortunately, we were too busy navigating to take pictures as we headed up Klag Bay. We’re now anchored at the head of Klag Bay right off shore where the old ruins of Chichagof gold mine are. Kelsey and I spent about an hours pouring over the charts and planning our route for tomorrow. Another beautiful anchorage.

Bear in Falcon Arm

Smooth Channel

July 17, 2012 Klag Bay

     Woke up to light fog and gusty winds so decided to wait until later in the day to see if the wind calms and will catch the later slack tide to exit The Gate. Had a leisurely morning eating breakfast and reading, when another sail boat showed up (Jaca) and anchored near us--we hailed them and were able to get the morning weather report from them (we can’t get the report in here). We’re still tentatively planning on leaving later in the afternoon, but we’ll see how the weather looks then. (wind is from the NW today)
     Rowed ashore to explore the old Chichagof gold mine. Built in the early 1900s, the peak of production was in the 20s. As the quantity of gold found declined, it was shut down in 1943.There was some renewed exploration in the 1980s, but when the camp burned down, operations ceased. (lots of pictures)
      It was fun walking in the forest looking at the ruins. Pete has been here numerous times and when he was here in 2005, found an old piano with ivory keys undulating in the moss. We were able to find where the old piano was in the woods. The ivory was gone, but we found the hammers, and some old strings. In a few years all that will be left is the wire. The forest reclaims things very quickly here.We saw lots of bear scat and otter tracks in the sand.
     As we rowed back to Privateer, we were able to get the updated 4pm weather forecast and decided stay put tonight and we will leave here tomorrow on the morning slack tide.