Sailing SE Alaska

July 21, 2012 Porcupine Bay, thru Lisianski Strait, Lisianski Inlet to Pelican

     Today we had to catch the beginning of the flood tide in order to travel with the tide through Lisianski Strait. The flood started at 9am and as we were getting ready to pull up the anchor, Kelsey spotted two adult Sitka black-tailed deer and a fawn on the nearby shore. They warily watched us for a minute, then bounded away. We then pulled up the anchor and were underway by 7:30 am. Goodbye Porcupine bay--you were lovely. Second sunny day in a row, a rarity in SE Alaska.
     Pete took the helm to exit the bay, another tricky, narrow passage, and we headed down Islas Bay. The ocean swells were only about 2 feet and the winds were light so we motored. While we were making our way toward Porcupine Rock I spotted whale blow plumes off our starboard bow, around the Palmtree Islands. Eventually we saw at least four different whales and they were close enough that I could see their backs rounding above the water and occasionally a tail. Pete said they were feeding off the shallow reefs in that area. Very cool!
     We went out into the ocean far enough to clear Porcupine Rock and then swung North then NE into Lisianski Strait. Up until that point we had motored but as we got closer to the mouth of Lisianski Strait, the wind picked up and we raised the main and unfurled the yankee and turned off the engine. We had timed it perfectly--the flood was just starting. The mouth of Lisianski Strait is very wide but the area deep enough to enter is very narrow--kelp beds everywhere to our port and starboard.
     Once we had cleared the tricky, narrow entrance to the strait, Pete turned the helm over to Kelsey (her turn as captain today) and I kept track of where we were on the chart--although the depths most of the way were deep and I didn’t have to follow so closely as we had on previous days. We had a nice down-wind run with winds in the 10-15 knot range--We reached 7.5 knots boat speed at one point (once again disproving what I had heard about full keel boats being so slow).
     At one point Pete turned to me and said he was going to teach me how to single hand sail. I was very nervous but game (I trust Pete completely). So, he showed me how to steer with the tiller between my legs, start my gybe, pull in the main sheet then when the main swings over, let the sheet run free. It was hard for me to haul in the main sheet but this is a 36 foot boat, so with a smaller boat, which I prefer, I should be able to do it easily. He had me ignore the yankee until after the gybe. Wow--not as bad as I thought--single handed sailing has always felt unachievable for me, but now I feel it’s something I can do. Kelsey took a turn at it too. He’s going to have us practice some more in lighter winds. Plus, he’ll teach me how to do it when tacking as well.
     Lisianski Strait is very beautiful--high towering mountains on the South shore. We passed Stag Bay off our starboard side--more snow-topped towering peaks but Pete said there aren’t any good anchorages in there. Once we passed Stag Bay, the strait started to gradually narrow and once we approached Bohemia Creek, where there is a green day marker, the navigable part of the strait narrowed considerably and I had to watch the chart closely as Kelsey steered. Kelp close on either side of us--I’ve learned to watch for the kelp beds as they always indicate shallow water.
     We made our way around Rock Point and entered Lisanski Inlet. The wind lessened and Pete had us furl in the yankee so we could point more downwind. Eventually we saw Pelican up ahead (our first town since we left Sitka) and as we got close, we started the engine -the confine of the docks is close, so Pete brought us in--while Kelsey stood at the bow and let him know how close we were. As we approached the dock, the harbor master, Grady, came up and took one of our lines and greeted us.
     Pelican is a cute, quaint little town built mostly on piers, with a board walk that runs most of its length. A few gift shop/cafe, laundromat/showers, a library,the post office, but mostly people's cabins line the boardwalk. A sign reminds people to keep out an eye for bears along the boardwalk. On the opposite (Western) shore of Pelican, less than a mile across are tall craggy snow-covered mountains with numerous cascading waterfalls. So amazingly beautiful.
     Went and had a shower and did my laundry. On Privateer we shower in the cockpit (a hose is connected to the sink down below) and conserving water is very important--wet hair, turn off water, shampoo, turn on water to rinse, wet body, turn off water, soap up, turn on water for a quick rinse) So, a 4 minute shower on shore felt very extravagant. The library, only open a few hours a day, has wifi--yeah! I get to download my blog while I'm here and email home.
     After dinner that evening we strolled down the boardwalk down the South end of town. As we crossed over the river, we met a local man coming our way with a gun. (We had heard a gun shot earlier in the day) We stopped and chatted. They have a lot of problems with bears and he had shot a mom with two cubs with buckshot (?) on the edge of town. I’m not sure what it’s called but I think its maybe a shell with BBs--doesn’t wound the bear--just gives them a sting to hopefully deter them from getting too comfortable around town.
      Once we reached the edge of town, we turned around and headed to Rose’s bar--a place with MUCH character. Christmas lights on the bar, a nude drawing which I’ve heard was Rose as a young woman (found out later that it’s not, just a story she likes to tell), glass cases with various Native American art--masks, button blanket etc. There’s a recent photo of 78 year old Rose above the bar, wearing a feather boa (obviously someone who lives life to the fullest). Rose (who has owned the bar for 38 years) wasn’t there that evening, her daughter was tending bar. The bar is covered with carvings of people’s names and the ceiling covered with people’s names in black marker and dollar bills.
    Pete and his friend Justin have their names on the ceiling from a visit here in 2005. Apparently, Rose will let you sign your name on the ceiling, or have you put your name and boat name on a dollar bill and stick it to the ceiling--but beware, because as you stand on a stool to do so, she leaps over the bar and will pants you! Now, that’s something I’d like to see! Also, (warning), don’t ring the heavy brass bell on the bar with the sledgehammer, as you will then be expected to buy everyone in the bar a drink.
     Back to Privateer (feels weird to be tied to a dock after all our anchoring), and to bed. Another perfect day in paradise.